Inside the Rexx Workshop: How Custom Watch Dials Are Created

Introduction

Independent watchmaking looks very different from large-scale industrial production. In a small workshop, the process is slower, more deliberate, and far more hands-on. At Rexx Timepieces, a dial often begins as a simple brass blank and gradually becomes a finished watch component through design, engraving, manual finishing, and careful assembly.

This workshop approach allows for experimentation, texture, and individuality in a way that mass production rarely does. From CAD preparation to reverse etching and final polishing, every stage plays a role in shaping the personality of the dial.

Designing the Dial

Most dial projects begin digitally. Before any metal is engraved, the layout is prepared in design software to define the proportions and structure of the dial.

At this stage, the watchmaker must think about:

• Dial diameter
• Index spacing
• Logo placement
• Date window position
• Texture zones and engraving boundaries

Even small changes in spacing can affect the visual balance of the entire watch. This is one of the reasons why watch dial design is such a critical part of the process.

Preparing the Dial Blank

Most custom dials begin as a metal blank, often made from brass, copper, or stainless steel. In many small workshops, brass watch dials are especially popular because brass engraves cleanly, responds beautifully to finishing, and allows strong contrast after polishing and surface treatment.

Before engraving starts, the blank is cut to the correct diameter and thickness. At this point, precision matters. A dial is a small component, but every fraction of a millimeter counts once hands, movement, and case all come together.

Laser Engraving and Creating the Dial Texture

This is where the character of the dial begins to emerge. In the Rexx workshop, watch dial engraving often happens through laser-based processes that allow for detailed textures and patterns to be created directly in the metal.

Depending on the design, this can include:

• Concentric patterns
• Radial textures
• Guilloché-inspired surfaces
• Decorative engraved details
• Layered texture zones

A laser engraved watch dial offers a level of flexibility that is especially useful in independent watchmaking. It allows the dial maker to experiment with forms and textures that would be difficult, expensive, or impractical in traditional industrial production.

Hand Finishing: Micro-Sanding and Manual Polishing

Even when machines are used for engraving, much of the final quality of a custom watch dial still depends on manual work. In a small workshop like Rexx, finishing is often done by hand in order to control the surface more precisely.

Typical finishing stages include:

• Micro-sanding to refine engraved areas and reduce micro burrs
• Manual polishing to enhance contrast in the metal
• Controlled cleaning between finishing stages
• Surface refinement to preserve texture while improving clarity

Micro-sanding is especially useful after engraving because it helps smooth the surface without destroying the texture pattern. Manual polishing then brings out the final character of the metal and often defines whether the dial feels more industrial, vintage, or refined.

This combination of machine precision and hand finishing is a major part of what gives independent dials their distinct personality.

Creating Indices and Logos with Reverse Etching

Traditional dials often use applied indices, meaning separate markers are installed manually onto the dial surface. In many laser-based workshop processes, however, a different method can be more practical and more precise.

At Rexx, one effective technique is reverse etching. Instead of adding separate indices later, the surrounding surface of the dial is engraved or recessed while the numerals, indices, and logo are intentionally left uncut. This leaves them naturally raised above the dial surface.

The advantages of reverse etching include:

• Perfect alignment
• No need for manual installation of separate markers
• Sharp edges and excellent visual precision
• Strong compatibility with laser workflows

This method is especially effective for custom brass watch dial work, where engraved contrast and raised features can create a very crisp and distinctive result.

Alternative Mounting Methods in Small Workshops

When separate indices or dial elements are used, they do not always come with traditional dial feet. In small workshops and prototype-based projects, a more practical solution is often the use of precision adhesive dots.

These ultra-thin adhesives make it possible to mount certain elements securely without drilling extra holes into the dial or relying on standard feet installation. For low-volume production and experimental dial work, this can be a clean and highly useful method.

Advantages of adhesive dots include:

• Clean installation
• Reduced thickness constraints
• Greater flexibility in custom work
• Easier alignment during small-batch assembly

From Dial to Finished Watch

Once the dial is complete, it becomes part of a full watch build. The hands are installed carefully, spacing is checked, and the dial is mounted onto the movement before final casing.

Techniques like these also influence the broader design language behind watches such as the Meshberg 37 Automatic, where texture, balance, and light interaction play a central role in the final result.

For a deeper educational look at the process behind dial design and production, you can also read our related guide on The Watcher HQ.

Final Thoughts

Inside a small independent watchmaking workshop, a dial is never just a printed component. It is a design surface, a technical challenge, and often a small piece of metal art.

By combining digital layout, laser engraving, manual finishing, and workshop-level experimentation, independent makers can produce dials with character that would rarely exist in standard mass production.

That blend of craftsmanship, precision, and creative freedom is a big part of what makes independent watchmaking so compelling.

Related Reading

• How Custom Watch Dials Are Made
• Art Dials and Independent Dial Makers
• The Art of Watch Dials in Independent Watchmaking

Explore More from Rexx Timepieces

Discover more custom watch projects, workshop stories, and original builds at Rexx Timepieces, or follow the full making process on the Rexx Timepieces YouTube channel.